The Italian Almanac

macho fashion

Italian Fashion - June 28

Italian designers ended a fling with femininity as they kicked off men's fashion week in Milan. Dumping last summer's sequined shirts, pink pants and pretty floral patterns, designers pumped next year's spring-summer collections full of testosterone.

Versace harked back to the 80s, dressing muscular models in tropical beach wear and pristine white suits straight out of Miami Vice. Burly blokes, accessorised with tattoos and big-haired blonde girlfriends, swaggered past in mesh tops and gold- buttoned blazers with scrunched-up sleeves.

Burberry Prorsum, renowned for its dandy British style, designed next summer's range with military precision. Gold buttons and epaulettes adorned khaki trench coats and double-breasted blazers, worn over denim trousers, mesh vests and skinny cardigans. Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey said he was inspired by aristocratic British photographers Lord Snowdon and Lord Lichfield, making next summer's collection more masculine.

Dolce & Gabbana created its own iron men, glinting in burnished metallic suits or bursting out of tight white tuxedos. For the office, Dolce & Gabbana guys were impeccably groomed in immaculate dark suits worn with polka dot shirts and black ties. Weekends are for wearing punky shredded jeans and battered tank tops, or working out in silk boxer shorts emblazoned with a strategically-placed tiger.